Inaugural travel on my "NEW PASSPORT". |
Since March 2020 "Covid 19" pandemic had brought Global World travel to a standstill finally resuming partially in 2021. In 2021 flew to Dubai for "Expo Dubai 2020" and also accomplished the adrenaline junkie sport of ziplining on the World's longest zipline at "Jebel Al Jais"in Ras Al Khaimah mountain range of U.A.E. In 2022 International travel opened to more country's and in April 2022 come across a advertisement by "Anjali Travel & Tours" for a "6 Days/5 Nights " group tour to Azerbaijan beginning on Saturday(14/5/2022) and terminating on Friday(20/5/2022).
A "Bird's Eye View" of Baku Airport" from the plane. |
Monument to Huseyn Javid(Cavid) in Baku. |
I was stuck on the jinxed "N0 81" since March 2020, being the total number of country's visited since my last travel to Laos on New Years eve in 2020 before "Covid 19" put International and even local travel within India to a standstill.
Broad tree lined roads of Baku |
Contacted the travel agency, visiting their office at Ville Parle on Wednesday(20/4/2022) and confirmed my participation in the tour by paying a advance sum of Rs 60,000 to Ms Prachi.Gadgil,the tour administrative official of "Simi Travels Pvt Ltd" in Mumbai of which "Anjali Travel & Tours" was a subsidiary agency.
Residential buildings of 21st Century Baku |
All "Group Tour" tourist travel's are organized in pairs, usually couples or relatives or friends to a hotel room and as i was travelling single had to pay a extra amount for the single room hotel occupancy with the total tour cost amounting to Rs 1,03,635 . Finally paid the remaining amount of Rs 43,635 and got ready for visiting Country N0 82 , Azerbaijan
Beautiful and clean Baku. |
.A brief introduction to Azerbaijan which is primarily a Shia Muslim country, the second largest Shia Muslim population after Iran with religion not written in their constitution and one of the most liberal Muslim country's in the World .Azerbaijan is referred to as the "LAND OF FIRE" for symbolic and etymological reasons with fire used as the main appeal of the country on the International stage .
Arrival in Baku |
The country is also known as the birth place of "Crude Oil" that started production in 1847 when the first oil well was drilled in Azerbaijan almost three years before the first oil well in U.S.A .In fact the household "NOBEL FAMILY" synonymous with the "NOBEL PRIZE" made their fortune in the oil and trading industry of Azerbaijan.
Huseyn Javid(Cavid) avenue |
Baku the Capital of Azerbaijan situated on the Western coast of the Caspian sea at 28 meters(92 ft) below sea level is the World's lowest and largest Capital city that is below sea level and along with Amsterdam in Holland is officially one of the only two capital city's situated below sea level. If a fan of "Chess" then Baku is one of the World's leading chess Centre's organizing International Chess tournaments almost every year with its most famous contribution to the World of Chess being Gary. Kasparov ,considered the World's greatest chess grandmaster who hailed from this city during the Soviet era.Above Video :- A dip in the swimming pool followed by a Sauna bath at our residence "Parkway Inn Hotel & Spa" in Baku. Recovery from "Travel Jet Lag".
View of "Flame Towers" from my hotel room. |
Friday(14/5/2022) Departure Mumbai and arrival Baku:- On a group tour with " Simi Tours pvt Ltd" to Azerbaijan we were a total of 7 passengers..Mr Atul.B.Dani, Ms Bina.A.Dani, Mr Bimal.R.Shah, Ms Sangita.B.Shah, Dr Parameswaran.Kumar ,Ms Vijaya .Kumar all couples with me the lone solo bachelor tourist as also the oldest member of the group.
Cool weather & impeccably clean city. |
On arriving at "Boarding Gate 67 A" rang up Mr Atul.Dani who was the main tour leader of our group as informed by the tour office and on not getting a response rang up Dr Parameswaran who answered my call and hence got introduced to the rest of the group members. Mr Bimal.Shah and Mr Atul.Dani were classmates with Mr Bimal.Shah having a business concerning stock markets and hence total strangers had a common topic of subject to break the ice and begin the conversation. Reader's of my travelogues will notice that although a eternal "SOLO" traveler have always never ever been lonely on any travel, a passion that keeps me relevant and employed without any wages. Ahoy !
Our first lunch in Baku at "Flavors" |
We finally boarded flight "G9 - 406" at 0410 hrs with the plane taking off a bit late at 0510 hrs. Our Mumbai to Sharjah transit flight was delayed by 2 hours as Sharjah Airport runway was closed for air traffic ,reason's unknown. Hence midway on the verge of landing ,our aircraft had to alter route and make a emergency landing in Ras Al Khaimah for refueling .
"Azerbaijan:- Land of Fire. |
At Ras Al Khaimah runway realized that for the first time in my air travel history had experienced a mid flight diversion. Got the opportunity to view the airfield lined with planes akin to a car parking lot from the open forward door of the aircraft kept open by the staff, something unthinkable on normal air flights..After the brief emergency Ras Al Khaimah stop-over made the 15 minutes flight from Ras Al Khaimah to Sharjah, akin to a short taxi ride with this taxi not a 4-wheeler but a plane . Finally boarded the transit flight at Sharjah and after flying over the snow clad Caucasian mountains landed in Baku at 1245 hrs local time (1415 hrs I.S.T) .Above Video :- A glimpse of Huseyn Javid(Cavid) avenue in Baku
Akin to a some people collecting "Vintage Vehicles" or owning expensive vehicles i get my adrenaline junkie by travel to various country's and indulging in extreme adventure sports. Azerbaijan was country N0 82 on my list of country's travelled during my lifetime. Not a easy task as any travel ,let alone "Solo Travel" which is my specialty involves a lot of factors besides a decent monetary bank balance. .Try it and hope i have left a "Benchmark" for passionate adventurer traveler's proving that monetary wealth and age alone is not a license to travel the Globe and if i can do it on a shoestring budget then so could you .Ahoy ! Snacks during the two flights was "Chicken Tandoori" , a real large hamburger that kept me energized.
On arrival at airport ,custom and immigration was very swift with not much of waiting at the immigration counter for " E- Visa " holders. Changed some currency into local currency at the airport with the exchange rate being 1 US$ = 1.70 Manat or 1 Manat = Rs 45.70. Finally we all made our exit from the airport into Baku City.
At the Entrance/ Departure to the airport terminal we were met by our young tour guide Mr Kamran.Yusifoy .As our arrival was late guide Kamran suggested we drive directly from Heydar Aliyav International airport for lunch and after loading our luggage into the Mercedes mini bus headed 27 Kms to "Flavors Fusion Cuisine" restaurant in downtown Baku
.The long drive gave us a glimpse of some of the elegantly designed buildings of Baku which in some cases rivaled Dubai in design and execution with the highway roads clean and broad. Lunch was at " Flavors Fusion Cuisine", a Indian restaurant that was packed with Indian tourists from another tour group.
21st Century Baku replicating Dubai. |
All the three couples were vegetarians with me being the lone non-vegetarian and after lunch we were driven to the " Parkway Inn Hotel & Spa" where I was put up on the 5th floor in spacious room "N0 503" which offered a excellent view of the Flame Towers. As usual did my exploration and had a " Bonny( Hindi slang for First)" swim in the hotel's tiny pool and after that a excellent sauna bath that extracted my sleep and travel fatigue. The room T.V was not functioning and got the same serviced by the hotel staff. On switching the T.V was introduced to a host of different channels in languages i couldn't understand but realized that Russian T.V channels definitely had a place of importance in Azerbaijan social life and lifestyle. Managed to tune into a English News channel but unlike India BBC and CNN were definitely not prime channels. Travel Educates ! Surfing a English language channel did find a news channel in English but got hooked onto the local Azerbaijan MTV channel playing various genres of Rock & Pop although not in the English language.
Chic local store cum bar next to our hotel |
Someone said " Music has no boundaries or language ".Very true. Who says ONE(1) is a lonely number. Definitely not for yours truly the eternal nomadic bachelor. Ahoy !In the evening at 1830 hrs we visited the Huseyn Javid(Cavid) avenue, a park dedicated to Azerbaijan's famous poet Huseyn.Javid(Cavid) who was exiled during the Stalin purges in the U.S.S.R. The park situated in front of Azerbaijan National Academy of Sciences has a huge bronze monument of Huseyn.Javid(Cavid) created by sculptor Omar.Eldarov .This park was reconstructed in 2002 and 2008 after which several fountains discharging into a water complex was installed in the park .The Statue is surrounded by water pools, two in front of the statue and three behind it .Baku has a unofficial name as "The City of Winds" and my first outdoors's stroll in Baku made me realize the reason for Baku listed as one of the World's windiest city's.
Local Azerbaijani liquor /Scotch whisky |
After a brief Stroll in this beautiful spacious park that had fountains we drove to " Rennaissance Palace, Baku" for our dinner and evening entertainment.
Belly dancing and traditional Azerbaijani dances was arranged by Ms Nergis .Mammadova, the main tour and entertainment coordinator of "Simi Travels Pvt Ltd" in Baku. Professional dancer's performed for us tourists at the "Rennaissance Palace,Baku".It was a evening of Dinner entertainment along with a lavish cocktail of liquor which consisted of a king size "Johnny Walker Black Label" whisky bottle along with local Azerbaijani beer ,Vodka,soft drinks as the songs were played along with dance's.. Later we all danced along with the dancer and among us Mr Atul.Dani was the life of the party, uninhibited to the good things in life as a grandfather . After the late night dinner cum entertainment we were driven back to our hotel..At night the view of the three "Flame Towers" from my hotel room was marvelous.
At the Cemetery of "MARTYRS' LANE" also called "ALLEY OF MARTYRS" on Highland Park in Baku..The imposing Flame Towers can be seen in the background. |
Buffet Breakfast at "Park Inn Hotel" |
Sunday(15/5/2022) Baku :- Breakfast was at 0800 hrs on the ground floor restaurant of the hotel.Was just spoiled for choice in choosing my non- vegetarian breakfast meal that is typical of all star hotels but for non vegetarians there was not much choice of different vegetarian snacks and my co travel colleagues had a below par breakfast. Most travel tours from Mumbai are organized in groups of "Vegetarian" and "Non Vegetarian" and this was definitely a "Vegetarian Group" and hence surprised at the vegetarian breakfast menu.
Today was the annual " Baku Marathon" and hence Travel coordinator/ Guide Mr Kamran told us roads would be closed and the tour would start at 1200 hrs after the main roads opened, a total waste of precious limited sight seeing time.
.This was a shock but on insistence of Group member Dr Parameswaran's wife Ms Vijaya and self for changing the travel routine he finally agreed to the same which was a huge relief. Sightseeing new locales, historic edifices ,local entertainment and indulging in junkie adrenalin sports has always been my agenda on all travel explorations and Baku was no different although this was a "Group Tour". .Finally at 1000 hrs we left the hotel on our travel bus towards " Highland Park" on a different route from the normal and encountered a huge traffic jam but finally reached our destination " Highland Park".
Highland Park Funicular train station |
.This was a shock but on insistence of Group member Dr Parameswaran's wife Ms Vijaya and self for changing the travel routine he finally agreed to the same which was a huge relief. Sightseeing new locales, historic edifices ,local entertainment and indulging in junkie adrenalin sports has always been my agenda on all travel explorations and Baku was no different although this was a "Group Tour". .Finally at 1000 hrs we left the hotel on our travel bus towards " Highland Park" on a different route from the normal and encountered a huge traffic jam but finally reached our destination " Highland Park".
"MARTYRS' LANE" also called "ALLEY OF MARTYRS" on Highland Park in Baku. A walk along this lane beginning from Martyrs Mosque up to the Eternal Flame monument. |
Alighted our Mercedes Benz Mini bus near the " Funicular terminus" at Highland Park which during the Soviet era was called "Sergei Kirov Park" and is also called Dagutsu Park (Azerbaijani)or "Viewing Park" as it offers a panoramic view of entire Baku Bay and the City. ABOVE VIDEO :- A Glimpse of Highland Park.
For the first time got a view of " Flame Towers", the landmark of Baku city from a handshake distance. Flame Towers is a trio of skyscrapers, the height of the tallest tower being 182 m (597 ft).The three flame-shaped towers symbolize the element of fire ,a reference to Azerbaijan's motto, "The Land of Fire".
Hazi.Aslanov Memorial on Highland Park. |
Historically a region where natural gas flares shoot from the earth and Zoroastrian worshippers saw in fire a symbol of the divine ,notably at the Ateshgah of Baku and the Yanar Dag. The three-flame motif also appears on the coat of arms of Baku. The Flame Towers consist of three buildings, South, East and West which i was viewing from close proximity.
"TURKISH MARTYRS MEMORIAL" |
The facades of the three Flame Towers function as a large display screen at night with the use of more than 10,000 high-power LED luminaires, supplied by the Osram subsidiary Traxon Technologies and Vetas Electric Lighting. Guide Kamran explained us the significance of the Turkish Mosque also called "Mosque of the Martyrs" and a brief introductory explanation of the local landmarks.
We went off our own directions to explore the vicinity with Kamran and the rest heading to the Funicular station for a ride to Baku Boulevard on Azerbaijan's only Funicular railway system.
Martyrs Mosque on Highland Park |
The Funicular on a ticket of 1 Manat offers a ride from Highland Park to the base of Baku boulevard near "Carpet Museum" and vice-versa, a total travel time of 10 minutes in one direction. As for me walked around the "Turkish Martyrs Mosque" inaugurated in 1999 by Turkish President Suleyman Demirel and the Azerbaijani President Heydar.Aliyev. and from there down the steps to the Funicular Station which was a simple ordinary train station .
View of "Baku Boulevard" from Highland Park.The park stretches along the south-facing bay on the Caspian Sea. |
The view of " Flame Towers" and the rest of Baku city from the elevated height of "Highland Park" was awesome.On the main avenue next to the Funicular station is a monument to Hazi.Aslanov. Hazi Aslanov (January 22, 1910 — January 24, 1945) was an Azerbaijani Major-General of the Soviet armoured troops during World War II. Aslanov was awarded the Hero of the Soviet Union title twice. The second Hero title was awarded on July 12, 1991 by President Mikhail. Gorbachov, at the recommendations by Heydar Aliyev.Next ,walked to the "Turkish War Memorial" situated on the main road next to the memorial of Hazi .Aslanov facing the Funicular station . Built by the Turkish Government in 1990 to honour the 1130 Turkish soldiers who lost their lives in 1918 First World War in the "Battle of Baku" , fighting alongside Azerbaijani soldiers against the Bolsheviks
Beautiful Martyrs Lane lined with tree's. |
.A local garden lady employee tried to guide me in Azerbaijani language and thanking her gave her 1 Manat for her efforts. Poverty is not visible in Baku but there is definitely a part of the lowest economic group in all Country's, be it " First World", "Third World" or " Developing World" with the only difference being the levels of poverty in comparison to the cost of living of that particular country.. From the " Turkish War Memorial" crossed the road and walked across the beautiful garden pathway of the Azerbaijan Martyrs Memorial. "Martyrs Lane " is a war memorial as well as cemetery dedicated to those killed by the Soviet army on "Black January 1990" and in the First "Nagarno -Karabakh War of 1988-1994".
At the "ETERNAL FLAME " Monument on MARTYRS LANE on Highland Park |
Approximately 15,000 people are buried in this cemetery, a tragic and aesthetically decorated memorial site.Notable burials at "Martyr's Lane" is the first tomb at the entrance that belongs to married couple Fariza and Ilham Allahverdiyev who died during Black January. Ilham, was shot dead by Soviet troops and Fariza committed suicide after hearing of her husband's death.
View of Land locked Baku City skyline from Highland Park.. |
This tomb has become a symbol of fidelity and love. The cemetery also contains the graves of the journalists Chingiz Mustafayev and Salatyn Asgarova, who were killed during the First Nagorno-Karabakh War. Walked along "Martyrs Lane" to the other end of the park towards the Caspian sea coastline and came across the eternal flame monument which is often visited by Azerbaijani Presidents and other high official dignitaries
The Trio of "FLAME TOWERS" as viewed at a different location on Highland Park. |
The monument was inaugurated on October 9, 1998 and the memorial complex is composed of a tomb standing on an 8-pointed star crown with a gold-framed glass dome. In 2007, the columns of the Eternal Flame were heightened and parts of the octangular star and eight-pointed mirror were made of gold.
Took a photograph at the monument and the view of Baku Boulevard and the Caspian sea coastline was beautiful on a bright cool morning. Walked towards the end of Highland Park facing the Caspian sea which has the Highland Park restaurant ,the last tourist site on Highland Park and finally returned back to the Funicular Station . Our group members arrived after their short trip to Baku Boulevard having witnessed a part of the running of the marathon
Walk down Highland Park stairs |
.Kamran explained us the importance of " Martyrs Memorial" and we walked towards the eternal flame monument. and as for me this was a repeat walk but with the group and expert local guidance by guide Kamran.,From the eternal flame we walked along the walkway facing the Caspian sea where Kamran explained us the various landmarks.
"Fountain Square" on Nizami Street in Baku. One of the Costliest shopping streets in the World. |
From a "Bird's Eye View" point of observation he pointed us " National Flag Square" which in 2010 was confirmed as the World's tallest flagpole but lost that title in 2011 and recently in 2017 this flagpole was dismantled and removed. What we saw was work in progress since February 2022 to build a new flag pole which on completion would be the highest flying flag in the World." "Baku Crystal Hall" indoor arena that hosted the 2012 "Eurovision Song Contest" is situated next to " National Flag Square". The "Who's Who" of the Rock and Pop World have performed at "Baku Crystal Hall" and plan your visit to Baku in time for the next concert performance if a music fan. Deniz Mall" which is a replica of the Sydney Opera house looked awesome from Highland Park.
Nizami:-Priciest street in the World. |
From Highland Park we walked down the stairs towards the car park and boarded our mini bus to head towards Icheri Sheher( Old Town ).It was a short ride towards the walled Enclave of Icheri Sheher(Old City). Finally we arrived outside the walled city of Ichen Sheher where we alighted the bus and walked down beautiful Nizami street situated outside the Fortified walls of "Old City" which was crowded with branded shop's , pedestrians and lined with tree's.
Nizami Street is home to various outlets, from banks to fashion stores and is one of the most expensive streets in the world.The street's history could be traced back to Baku's town-planning project of 1864 and the street runs through the city's downtown from west to east. It begins from Abdulla Shaig Street, in the mountainous part of the city and ends at railroad bed on Sabit Orujov Street.
Malls and shopping on Nizami street in Baku |
The street also accommodates the embassies of Germany, Norway, the Netherlands and Austria, as well as the European Union Delegation to Azerbaijan .As is the case with all tourists shopping was of prime importance and except for me our entire group was busy entering shops and bargaining as well as shopping.
Plush Nizami Street |
The traffic-free segment, which begins at the Fountains Square and ends at the Rashid Behbudov Street, is commonly known as Torgovaya ("The Merchant street" in Russian) and is the main shopping and entertainment center of Nizami street .At " Fountain Square" took a photograph with a mannequin statue of a horse couple, something unique.The square was previously called Parapet and is often called by the same name now.
The traffic-free segment of Nizami street which begins at "Fountain Square " and ends at the Rashid Behbudov Street , is commonly known as Torgovya ("The merchant street" in Russian). |
The name of the fountains square derives from the presence of dozens of fountains throughout the square first constructed during Soviet rule of Azerbaijan.In 2010, the square was renovated by Baku authorities and a "Fountains Square" salad has been named after the square.
A walk along Nizami Street. |
Later also took a photo with a sculpture of a petite lady in umbrella near the McDonald's shop with co-tourist Mr Atul.Dani being my photographer..Mr Atul.Dani who wore gold rings on all his fingers except his thumbs was crazy on shopping, his favourite being perfumes .Shopping in "Baku Perfume " shop , the best perfume shop in Baku learned a little about perfumes through the salesman and Mr Bimal.Shah who along with Mr Atul .Dani also purchased perfume.
Entrance to Icheri Sheher (Old City) |
All three couples loved entering shops on Nizami Street , one of the World's costliest shopping street .and bargaining , typical of us Indians while i engrossed myself in photo shoots for my passion of travelogue blogging. For lunch we first visited "Bombay Zaika Hind Restorant" but had to move to the another restaurant as our lunch was not booked in advance and hence not ready .Walking further around chic Nizami street finally at 1515 hrs arrived at " Bombay- Bangla Darbar" restaurant on Nizami street .
Inside the walls of Icheri Sheher(Old City) in Baku |
As a non- vegetarian I was fed on a daily meal of chicken, having no other choice and here also lunch was chicken curry with beer . The Bangladeshi owner explained his woes regarding the restaurant closedown because of "Covid 19" ban on tourism. Baku seemed to be a big business complex for Asian restaurant owners mostly from India.
The beer cost 5 Manat and after lunch we walked back towards the entrance of the old City. Finally at approximately 1630 we entered the Old City, the most ancient part of Baku, which is surrounded by walls which were easily defended.
In December 2000, the Old City of Baku, including the Palace of the Shirvanshahs and Maiden Tower, became the first location in Azerbaijan to be classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Street hawkers line Icheri Sheher(Old City)street |
Entered the Old City through the "Paired Fortress Gates or Gosha Gala Gapysy" also sometimes called "Shamakhi gates"" and The gates of Shah Abbas" which are one of the main entrances to the Icheri Sheher(Old City) section of Baku. The main Gate has a emblem of two lions and a bull's head on its top, representation of Baku's "Coat of Arms". Meaning of the coat of arms on the main entrance gate to the fortress is as follows,
Sheep Skin Wig ?Local Baku hat. |
“The lions (meaning the fortress walls) guard the Bull (meaning the city) both at night (the Moon) and in the day (the Sun)”.On entering Old City Kamran explained us various sights including St Nicholas church, once a place of worship .Some scenes of famous Azerbaijani and USSR movies such as “Diamond hand”, “Amphibian man”, “Aybolit-66”, “Teheran-43”, “Do not be afraid, I`m with you” which are famous around the world were shot in Old City .Came across the excavated underground ruins of a Hammam(bathhouse),the " Khan Bathhouse".
Walking across the street crowded with tourists and shops entered the largest carpet shop in Baku ," Rug Gallery". The walk from the entrance to the first floor of this shop was lined with exotic carpets, very expensive. This building had a restaurant on the ground floor with a singer singing live music in Azerbaijani to the restaurant customers, exotic atmosphere.Top and Bottom Video's:- The Top Video is a view from the peak of "MAIDEN TOWER" while the bottom video is a view from HIGHLAND PARK in Baku. Compare the two views, one of the "Old City" from Maiden Tower and the other of 21st century Baku from Highland Park.
From the carpet shop we walked further where I clicked a photo wearing the local popular sheep wool cap rented by a hawker selling handicrafts . Next we came across the Multani Caravanserai established in the 14th century in Baku situated opposite to the Bukhara Caravanserai which was closed. Multan is the name of the city in Pakistan.The merchants and Zoroastrians from India harnessed this caravanserai as a stop and is assumed that these people erected the Ateshgah Temple of Zoroastrians in Surakhani.
The caravanserai has a square shape and the constructions of the building is in an ancient style.There are a lot of balconies around the courtyard. Now the Multani Caravanserai is converted to a plush restaurant.
From Multani Caravavsarai our next stop was the ruins of the " Bazaar" .Bazar square (Azerbaijani: Bazar Meydanı) or Khanqah complex is a historic religious-architectural complex built between 12-13th century.
It is located on Kichik Gala street in close proximity to Maiden Tower and is below street level.The Bazaar complex was discovered during archeological excavations carried out in 1964 on the northern side of the Maiden Tower.The structure of the monument has a pavement and arcades. 52 graves were discovered in the area as a result of the archaeological excavations. Most of the graves are specially preserved. In the middle of the yard, near the graves, a cylindrical well and at a certain distance, on south-eastern side, a large eight-pointed column were discovered. The column stands on a three-tiered pavement, which was built of stone.
Walking further ahead from the " Bazaar" came across the landmark " Maiden Tower". The Maiden Tower is a 12th Century monument and a landmark of Old Baku city. As you walk up the narrow spiral stairs of Maiden Tower you come across a museum exhibit on each floor.
Some scientific sources indicate that the Maiden Tower is a paramount example of Zoroastrianism and the pre-Islamic architecture in Iran and Azerbaijan. Zoroastrian's believed that there are 7 Steps or 7 Sky to reach heaven.The walk to the top of Maiden tower through its dark circular stairway was a bit strenuous but everyone in the group reached the summit where the view was excellent.
The tower and other wall structures now under the UNESCO list were strengthened during the Russian rule in 1806 and have survived.In 2011–2013 the tower underwent a restoration. At that time, in 2011, plexiglass barriers were installed around the tower's observation deck to prevent suicides.As a theatre addict was not surprised to learn that the ballet "Maiden Tower" is based on this iconic structure.
The legendary tale is of the king willing to force his daughter to marry a man she doesn't love, which she escapes by asking her father to first build a tower for her, and when it is finished committing suicide by jumping from the top of it has been the subject of many Azerbaijani poems and plays. The ballet titled “Maiden Tower", was the first Azerbaijani ballet composed by Afrasiyyab Badalbayli, in 1940.
This ballet is performed at Baku's Opera and Ballet Theatre. However, the storyline is a modified version of the legend.Hope to see this ballet some day in my home city of Mumbai as it has all drama of a Shakespearean tragedy. Ahoy! From Maiden Tower walked down the street and entered " Baku Caviar" which supposedly sells some of the best caviar in the World,the first time in my lifetime that i had visited a authentic retail shop selling Caviar.
The Baku Caviar boutique is more than just a retail outlet ,it is also an exquisite residence where visitors can indulge in a true luxury lifestyle. The boutique on the ground floor houses a store where you can buy the best varieties of Baku Caviar, fish delicacies, luxury alcohol, honey, saffron and designer souvenirs.
On the second floor of Baku Caviar Boutique, guests can experience a unique gastronomic treat - tasting dishes from various types of caviar and fish delicacies. On the very roof of the boutique there is a cozy terrace with a bar and a seating area, with a beautiful view of the Old Town.If you have uncountable money and a connoisseur of fish cuisine then my sincere advice is book a chartered flight to Baku and visit "Baku Caviar Boutique".
As responsible nature conservationist trader's "Baku Caviar Boutique" say's that they release 10 live sturgeon into the Caspian Sea for every jar sold. Next visited a two storey 12th century built caravanserai that was now converted to the plush " Mugam Club restaurant " .Walking further visited the " Juma Mosque", my second visit inside a Mosque as a tourist since visiting a Mosque in Sarajevo during my East European solo tour.
The Juma mosque was constructed over the ruins of the 12th century Jame Mosque by Baku millionaire and philanthropist Haji Sheikhali Agha Dadashov in 1889 and was used as a carpet museum during the Soviet era..
After Independence from Soviet rule the Juma mosque was reconverted as a practicing mosque in the 1990's and extensively repaired and renovated. Further from the mosque came across another caravanserai which was the " Art Decor " restaurant whose roof resembled a small indoor stadium. Came across a musician playing a guitar like instrument and tipped him 1 Amat.
We were late in our tour itinerary for the day and on our way to Shirvanshahs Palace Museum was sad to find the miniature book museum closed .The timings being upto 1700 hrs. Walking further and came across a Hamam ," Aga Mikayil Hamamii" a historic bathhouse built in the 18th century by Haji Aga Mikayil after whom it is named. Dr Parameswaran and self entered the ordinary looking Hamam , the first time I had visited a Hamam having visited numerous oriental city's.
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Took a photograph inside the Hamam that had a few men seated inside akin to a swimming pool locale. From the Hamam it was next a direct uphill walk towards Palace of the Shirvanshah's .On the way stopped to taste the unique ice cream of Baku which is originally of Turkish origin called "Dondurma", sticky and doesn't melt in your mouth like normal ice cream. This ice-cream made of goat milk can be eaten upside down defying the laws of gravity and the vendor teases the buyer into snatching the ice-cream cone from the vendor's stick before finally handing it over to the buyer.
My first taste of street food in Baku and a ice cream that will forever be sticky in my memory.nEntrance to Shirvanshahs Palace Museum closes at 1900 hrs and we had about an hour to explore the museum.The Palace of the Shirvanshahs is a 15th-century palace built by the Shirvanshahs and described by UNESCO as "one of the pearls of Azerbaijan's architecture". The complex contains the main building of the palace, Divanhane, the burial-vaults, the Shah's mosque with a minaret, Seyid Yahya Bakuvi's mausoleum also "mausoleum of the dervish" associated with Dervish dancing and mystical Sufism located south of the palace, a portal in the east, Murad's gate, a reservoir and the remnants of a bath house.
In 1964, the palace complex was declared a museum-preserve and taken under the protection of the state. In 2000, this ensemble, along with the fortified walls of the historic part of the city and the Maiden Tower, was named a World Heritage Site. From the museum we had to now make our way out of the fortress walled old city and passed s few exotic restaurants coming across a beautiful mural of a lion painted on the wall of a restaurant, classic Andy. Warhol style Graffiti painting only difference being that this was the face of a lion and not
Marilyn.Monroe.This mural painted by artist Ali Shamsi is Called the "TRINITY " as this image has different interpretations when viewed from different angles. Seen from above it resembles a wolf ,from the side resembles a tigress and as photographed from the front resembles the lion. Hence the name "TRINITY" as these totem animals are oldest symbols of wisdom, nobility and courage. Walking further came across a beautiful stray Persian cat sitting aristocratically on the boundary wall of a exotic tourist restaurant.
"BAKU CAVIAR",One of the best in the World |
It is located on Kichik Gala street in close proximity to Maiden Tower and is below street level.The Bazaar complex was discovered during archeological excavations carried out in 1964 on the northern side of the Maiden Tower.The structure of the monument has a pavement and arcades. 52 graves were discovered in the area as a result of the archaeological excavations. Most of the graves are specially preserved. In the middle of the yard, near the graves, a cylindrical well and at a certain distance, on south-eastern side, a large eight-pointed column were discovered. The column stands on a three-tiered pavement, which was built of stone.
Walking further ahead from the " Bazaar" came across the landmark " Maiden Tower". The Maiden Tower is a 12th Century monument and a landmark of Old Baku city. As you walk up the narrow spiral stairs of Maiden Tower you come across a museum exhibit on each floor.
Mugam Restaurant,converted 12th century Caravanserai. |
Some scientific sources indicate that the Maiden Tower is a paramount example of Zoroastrianism and the pre-Islamic architecture in Iran and Azerbaijan. Zoroastrian's believed that there are 7 Steps or 7 Sky to reach heaven.The walk to the top of Maiden tower through its dark circular stairway was a bit strenuous but everyone in the group reached the summit where the view was excellent.
A Tourist visit to JUMA MOSQUE. |
The tower and other wall structures now under the UNESCO list were strengthened during the Russian rule in 1806 and have survived.In 2011–2013 the tower underwent a restoration. At that time, in 2011, plexiglass barriers were installed around the tower's observation deck to prevent suicides.As a theatre addict was not surprised to learn that the ballet "Maiden Tower" is based on this iconic structure.
Local Musician outside a restaurant. |
The legendary tale is of the king willing to force his daughter to marry a man she doesn't love, which she escapes by asking her father to first build a tower for her, and when it is finished committing suicide by jumping from the top of it has been the subject of many Azerbaijani poems and plays. The ballet titled “Maiden Tower", was the first Azerbaijani ballet composed by Afrasiyyab Badalbayli, in 1940.
Uphill cobbles street in Icheri Sheher. |
This ballet is performed at Baku's Opera and Ballet Theatre. However, the storyline is a modified version of the legend.Hope to see this ballet some day in my home city of Mumbai as it has all drama of a Shakespearean tragedy. Ahoy! From Maiden Tower walked down the street and entered " Baku Caviar" which supposedly sells some of the best caviar in the World,the first time in my lifetime that i had visited a authentic retail shop selling Caviar.
Miniature Book Museum near Palace of Shirvanshahs |
The Baku Caviar boutique is more than just a retail outlet ,it is also an exquisite residence where visitors can indulge in a true luxury lifestyle. The boutique on the ground floor houses a store where you can buy the best varieties of Baku Caviar, fish delicacies, luxury alcohol, honey, saffron and designer souvenirs.
Divankhana in Palace of Shirvanshahs |
On the second floor of Baku Caviar Boutique, guests can experience a unique gastronomic treat - tasting dishes from various types of caviar and fish delicacies. On the very roof of the boutique there is a cozy terrace with a bar and a seating area, with a beautiful view of the Old Town.If you have uncountable money and a connoisseur of fish cuisine then my sincere advice is book a chartered flight to Baku and visit "Baku Caviar Boutique".
Miniature exhibits in Palace of Shirvanshahs. |
As responsible nature conservationist trader's "Baku Caviar Boutique" say's that they release 10 live sturgeon into the Caspian Sea for every jar sold. Next visited a two storey 12th century built caravanserai that was now converted to the plush " Mugam Club restaurant " .Walking further visited the " Juma Mosque", my second visit inside a Mosque as a tourist since visiting a Mosque in Sarajevo during my East European solo tour.
Tomb of Shirvanshahs Family(1435-1436) |
The Juma mosque was constructed over the ruins of the 12th century Jame Mosque by Baku millionaire and philanthropist Haji Sheikhali Agha Dadashov in 1889 and was used as a carpet museum during the Soviet era..
Inside Palace of Shirvanshahs |
After Independence from Soviet rule the Juma mosque was reconverted as a practicing mosque in the 1990's and extensively repaired and renovated. Further from the mosque came across another caravanserai which was the " Art Decor " restaurant whose roof resembled a small indoor stadium. Came across a musician playing a guitar like instrument and tipped him 1 Amat.
Cannon exhibit on Icheri Sheher Fortified walls. |
We were late in our tour itinerary for the day and on our way to Shirvanshahs Palace Museum was sad to find the miniature book museum closed .The timings being upto 1700 hrs. Walking further and came across a Hamam ," Aga Mikayil Hamamii" a historic bathhouse built in the 18th century by Haji Aga Mikayil after whom it is named. Dr Parameswaran and self entered the ordinary looking Hamam , the first time I had visited a Hamam having visited numerous oriental city's.
.
Took a photograph inside the Hamam that had a few men seated inside akin to a swimming pool locale. From the Hamam it was next a direct uphill walk towards Palace of the Shirvanshah's .On the way stopped to taste the unique ice cream of Baku which is originally of Turkish origin called "Dondurma", sticky and doesn't melt in your mouth like normal ice cream. This ice-cream made of goat milk can be eaten upside down defying the laws of gravity and the vendor teases the buyer into snatching the ice-cream cone from the vendor's stick before finally handing it over to the buyer.
Baku Boulevard along Caspian Sea . |
My first taste of street food in Baku and a ice cream that will forever be sticky in my memory.nEntrance to Shirvanshahs Palace Museum closes at 1900 hrs and we had about an hour to explore the museum.The Palace of the Shirvanshahs is a 15th-century palace built by the Shirvanshahs and described by UNESCO as "one of the pearls of Azerbaijan's architecture". The complex contains the main building of the palace, Divanhane, the burial-vaults, the Shah's mosque with a minaret, Seyid Yahya Bakuvi's mausoleum also "mausoleum of the dervish" associated with Dervish dancing and mystical Sufism located south of the palace, a portal in the east, Murad's gate, a reservoir and the remnants of a bath house.
Azerbaijani youth on Balu Boulevard waterfront. |
In 1964, the palace complex was declared a museum-preserve and taken under the protection of the state. In 2000, this ensemble, along with the fortified walls of the historic part of the city and the Maiden Tower, was named a World Heritage Site. From the museum we had to now make our way out of the fortress walled old city and passed s few exotic restaurants coming across a beautiful mural of a lion painted on the wall of a restaurant, classic Andy. Warhol style Graffiti painting only difference being that this was the face of a lion and not
On Caspian sea Waterfront along Baku Boulevard. |
Marilyn.Monroe.This mural painted by artist Ali Shamsi is Called the "TRINITY " as this image has different interpretations when viewed from different angles. Seen from above it resembles a wolf ,from the side resembles a tigress and as photographed from the front resembles the lion. Hence the name "TRINITY" as these totem animals are oldest symbols of wisdom, nobility and courage. Walking further came across a beautiful stray Persian cat sitting aristocratically on the boundary wall of a exotic tourist restaurant.
Gardens along BAKU BOULEVARD. |
Finally made our way out of the walled old city onto the main road. Boarded our mini bus and headed towards " Baku Boulevard". On approaching Baku Boulevard noticed that the street boundaries were being fenced as also seating arrangement made for spectators attending the " Azerbaijan Grand Prix-2022 " Formula 1 race scheduled on Sunday 12 June .
Baku Boulevard begins from " Azadliq Square(Freedom Square)" formerly named Lenin Square after Vladimir Lenin, was created in the 1960–70s, after construction of the Government House of Baku was finished in 1952. A monument to Lenin was erected in 1955. It was also formerly known as Stalin Square. The square was renamed Azadliq Square (Freedom Square) in 1991 after the collapse of the Soviet Union. On arrival at Baku Boulevard alighted our bus and began our walk across the second longest Boulevard in Europe situated on the Caspian sea..
Walked towards the seaside embankment and dipped my hand into the landlocked Caspian sea and would have loved to swim on one of Baku's beaches as i normally do in any Country with a sea coast. Came across a group of youngsters playing music across the seaside embankment. Walked all the way towards the historic "Swans Fountain Complex" originally built in 1960 and replaced with a marble fountain installation in 2007 when Baku boulevard underwent major reconstruction. In 2018 a new pool was built having 16 fountain poles and 7 swans statues in the complex. "
Little Venice" is situated next to "Swans Fountain Complex". Had a boat ride on " Little Venice" canal waterway with Dr Parameswaran and his wife Vijaya in the same boat as mine while the other two couples were in another motorized Gondola. Having spent decades at sea this artificial boat ride to me was akin to a racehorse jockey riding a pony but definitely a novelty experience as this was Baku on a "Full Moon " night. Above Video:- Co-Tourist couple Dr Parameswaran.Kumar,Mrs Vijaya.Kumar and Self on the mechanized Gondola on Little Venice canal waterways.
."Swans Fountain Complex" on Baku Boulevard |
Baku Boulevard begins from " Azadliq Square(Freedom Square)" formerly named Lenin Square after Vladimir Lenin, was created in the 1960–70s, after construction of the Government House of Baku was finished in 1952. A monument to Lenin was erected in 1955. It was also formerly known as Stalin Square. The square was renamed Azadliq Square (Freedom Square) in 1991 after the collapse of the Soviet Union. On arrival at Baku Boulevard alighted our bus and began our walk across the second longest Boulevard in Europe situated on the Caspian sea..
Baku Boulevard:- Second Longest in Europe. |
Walked towards the seaside embankment and dipped my hand into the landlocked Caspian sea and would have loved to swim on one of Baku's beaches as i normally do in any Country with a sea coast. Came across a group of youngsters playing music across the seaside embankment. Walked all the way towards the historic "Swans Fountain Complex" originally built in 1960 and replaced with a marble fountain installation in 2007 when Baku boulevard underwent major reconstruction. In 2018 a new pool was built having 16 fountain poles and 7 swans statues in the complex. "
"LITTLE VENICE" canal waterway's |
Little Venice" is situated next to "Swans Fountain Complex". Had a boat ride on " Little Venice" canal waterway with Dr Parameswaran and his wife Vijaya in the same boat as mine while the other two couples were in another motorized Gondola. Having spent decades at sea this artificial boat ride to me was akin to a racehorse jockey riding a pony but definitely a novelty experience as this was Baku on a "Full Moon " night. Above Video:- Co-Tourist couple Dr Parameswaran.Kumar,Mrs Vijaya.Kumar and Self on the mechanized Gondola on Little Venice canal waterways.
The Baku skyline on this full moon night was marvelous and the flame towers with their LED illumination was a sight to behold..After the boat ride boarded the bus and dinner was at " Maharani Indian Restaurant".
On entering the restaurant we were greeted with the sound of loud music and was surprised to find a big group of Asian tourists being entertained by a cabaret artist in one corner of the restaurant. Presuming them to be Indian tourists on inquiry was told that they were a group of Pakistani Pediatrician doctors on vacation in Baku.
View of Downtown Baku from "Swans Fountain Complex" |
One of the most exotic and vulgar cabaret shows just short of a strip tease that I have witnessed at my young age of travel across the Globe .This tall lithe scantily clad young woman could give any top rated vamp film artist a run for their money and could audition for any film. I presume she earned a good living entertaining privately rather than perform in films but most surprisingly this was Baku, a majority Muslim country and not Paris or Soho of London.
Mercedes Taxi in Downtown Baku. |
In Mumbai before the ban on "Dance Bar's" some of the performers at plush dance bar's like "Topaz" earned a income that could be the envy of top level corporate employees . Again chicken curry was served to me to which I requested the restaurant server to change to any other non- veg dish, most importantly fish. Was finally served Mutton curry as also being shared a few vegetarian dishes.
Plush Restaurant that also hosts "Live Entertainment". |
Excellent food also realizing Pakistani's are not very conservative once outside their country as their " Cabaret Entertainment" proved, unforgettable although I just glimpsed a little on my way to the toilet which was near their corner of this restaurant. We Indian tourists barring your's truly, "Uncle Bachelor" were definitely all conservative as all three couples were grandparents and this Pakistani side show entertainment must have been embarrassing. Dr Parameswaran and Mrs Vijaya Kumar had travelled exotic city's around the World having visited the "Lido" show in Paris but they also found this show shocking. After a late night dinner and a excellent day of hectic sightseeing finally landed back at the hotel.
Rest stop at Samaxi ,tasted local Azerbaijani tea. |
Monday(16/5/2022) Departure Baku and arrival Gabala :- On waking up watched the news in English and MTV Azerbaijan on T.V , excellent music in languages I couldn't understand. Buffet breakfast was at 0800 hrs as usual and at 1015 hrs our new Tour guide Mr Emil.Abilov arrived, a replacement for Mr Kamran who was ill.and hence on sick leave.I had last travelled in a "Group Tour" in 2010 with "Thomas Cook (I) Ltd" where our "Thomas Cook Guide" travelled with us throughout our West European land tour that began in Mumbai and ended in London.
Our Mini-Bus : Baku to Gabaland |
With "Simi Travels Pvt Ltd" it was outsourcing of local guides and logistics with Ms Nergis.Mamadova in charge of tour operations in Azerbaijan. At 1030 hrs we packed our luggage into the Mercedes mini bus and finally began our long 217 Kms journey to Gabala, a city situated at the southern slopes of the Greater Caucasus mountains having a elevation of 753 meters(2471 feet) above sea level.
Forest Resort:- Pony's and modern cars. |
To our disappointment we were told that the "Tufandaq "Winter-Summer " tourism complex in Gabala was closed for maintenance and hence we would not be doing the "Cable Car" rides over the mountain top. Similarly "Gabaland", a entertainment resort having souvenir shops, gardens and different amusement rides for kids as well as adults was also closed ..
Forest Resort Village women preparing "QUTAB". |
As compensation we were offered a firing session of real guns akin to Olympic shooters at the "Gabala Shooting Club" .
We seven tourists got to know each other better during the long 3 hours bus ride and i was seated in the front row single seat next to couple Dr Parameswaran and his wife Mrs Vijaya Kumar. Couple Mr Atul.Dani and wife Mrs Bina.Dani were in the next back row followed by couple Mr Bimal.Shah and Mrs Sangita.Shah.
It was akin to a small group of family members rather than a normal tour group that usually travel in a large bus as i did during my European road tour with "Thomas Cook Ltd" way back in 2010.
Scenic Nohur Lake with Ducks. |
Dr Parameswaran, a physician by profession and a alumni of "Nair Medical college" in Mumbai was a avid "Bird Watcher" and traveler familiar with many notable ornithologists of "B.N.H.S(Bombay Natural History Society)".He and his wife Mrs Vijaya travelled a lot ,surprising for a doctor who we non-doctor civilian patient's normally presume are always busy in their clinics or hospitals with absolute no time for leisure. Dr Parameswaran had discovered the formula balance between leisure time and professional work time enjoying his passions.
Mr Atul.Dani seemed busier than Mukesh.Ambani while on a holiday, always attending to his phone while Mr Bimal.Shah akin to me was holidaying irrespective of the rise or fall of the Stock market .Every Community in India is known for their unique contribution to our multicultural , multilinguistic and multireligious Country and with the average Gujarati community it is business trading that is their major passion in life.
Wild East Nohur Lake :- Horse rides |
Hindi song's were sung with all three couples contributing to singing Hindi songs including me who sang a Rajesh.Khanna/Kishore Kumar song.,.Gujarati songs were sung by the Shah and Dani families while Dr Parameswaran sang a song in Malayalam , multilinguistic Indian tourists on travel in Azerbaijan. Got to understand a little about the devastation of "Covid 19" through Dr Parameswaran who treated many patients including becoming a patient himself and recovering as also losing a few of his patients to the terrible devastating pandemic.
Resort at Nohur Lake in Qabala district. |
Total strangers became acquaintances. Travel educates. At 1215 hrs reached the village town of Samaxi and experienced mild rainfall. At Samaxi we stopped for tea and for the first time drank Azerbaijan tea like the locals.and purchased a mixture of dry fruits for 2 Manats, excellent nutrition energizing snack. At 1300 hrs left Samaxi on a cloudy cool afternoon and at 1400 hrs reached " Forest Resort" in Qabala (Gabala)district where we stopped in the midst of a amazing forest canopy.
A beautiful village resort amidst dense forest and village poultry roaming freely, akin to being on a farm.Pony rides were offered for 5 Manats/Ride but the pony's looked pathetically malnourished and hence avoided a "Tattoo ride". .Tasted the local dish of " Qutab" prepared at the local village stall .
Gabala Shooting Range Campus |
Qutab belongs to Azerbaijani cuisine and later popular in South Caucasian and Jewish cuisine as well. Qutab is made by creating a stiff dough from flour, water, eggs, and salt and the dough is rolled into a thin circular layer and the middle of each circle filled with stuffing before finally being folded into a crescent shape. The resulting patties are griddled on both sides and served by pouring over butter on top. To us Indian's Qutab is akin to a Roti stuffed with vegetables or non vegetarian ingredients. absolutely delicious.
Indoor Shooting faculties on Gabala Shooting Range |
Our next stop at 1500 hrs was the picturesque Nohur lake in Qabala district , a man-made lake that was created after WWII with the purpose to provide water to the surrounding villages. This picturesque lake had a mountainous forest on the opposite side of the tourist developed restaurants and boating facilities.Seems wildlife like bears and wolves inhabited the mountains facing this lake. Had a stroll along the banks of the lake which had ducks swimming and pony rides on offer.We took a group photo facing the lake .
Sprawling estate of "Gabala Shooting Range". |
From Nohur lake our next stop was at "Raja Indian and Azerbaijani" restaurant for lunch. A Very late lunch at this restaurant that had the iconic landmark "HEYDAR ALIYEV CONGRESS CENTER" situated on the opposite side of the highway .The building consists of three floors and has the majestic Caucasus mountains as a backdrop.Congress Center building was absolutely beautiful on this wet afternoon with clouds covering the mountain top..
After lunch we drove to the Gabala shooting range which has been operational since 2012 and is part of the Gabala Sport Club, a world-class facility that prepares the athletes for the national teams of Azerbaijan in shooting, boxing, karate, taekwondo, soccer, and judo.
A huge sprawling campus surrounded by forests and we could hear the echoes of the bullets being fired at targets by sports shooters.I have seen "Clay Pigeon" shooting in various Olympic games shown on T.V but never in my life ever been on a actual "Clay Pigeon " shooting range .
Ahoy ! On arrival at the "Clay Pigeon " open air shooting ground each of us was given our turn to shoot a "Clay Pigeon" mechanically released into the air and for the first time in my life tried my skill in " Clay Pigeon " shooting..
Since my teenager years in the 1970's had been using a " B.S.A Airgun" for shooting birds in my parent's native villages in Udipi district of Karnataka State in India.Later was even a member of the " Bombay Rifle Club" near my residence in Mumbai where I occasionally practiced target shooting.Had shot with a " AK-47" rifle at a tourist rifle range in Vietnam but never handled a bullet loaded rifle let alone practice "Clay pigeon" shooting.
Surprised myself by shooting down one clay pigeon target which made me feel a few decades younger, underestimating my own shooting skills. .Besides me among us 7 tourists in our group it was only Dr Parameswaran Kumar who was successful in shooting a " Clay pigeon" target.
We next went to the " Sniper Rifle Range" situated inside a large enclosed building which was a short walk from the "Clay Pigeon " firing range. .At the " Sniper Rifle Range" my experience in air gun shooting proved decisive and it was child's play shooting a " BULLS EYE" target from 10 meters distance using a high powered telescopic rifle.If i with 50% blindness in my left eye could hit a "Bulls Eye" a maximum number of times at my age proves the fact that there is no retirement age for "Snipers" and all those films depicting "Sniper Assassinations" are not as difficult as they seem.A famous Mafia quote is, quote, "Any Fool can pull the trigger".Got to understand the skills of a " SNIPER" although there is a day and night difference between target shooting and practical shooting in real life situations or any of the tragic wars.In the Olympics the oldest participants are normally from "Equestrian Events" or "Shooting Events" and Dr Parameswaran and your's truly are proof of the pudding although not Olympians. It was a cloudy day and cool but not biting cold weather, a relief from the heat of home city Mumbai .
In the same building was the "Archery Range" which we avoided but just visited for a photo shoot. "Cross-Bow" hunting is very popular in country's where hunting is legalized most notably U.S.A..
From the " Gabala Shooting Range" our last stop of the day was at the Bulud river restaurant resort.The Bulud river was a tiny stream flowing across this restaurant resort which had cabins on either side of the narrow flowing stream .We occupied a cabin which brought back memories of a similar landscape during my solo exploration of Almaty in Kazakhstan
.Sitting in this cabin experiencing nature in its purest form we sipped local tea while chatting on various topics. Co- Tourist Mr Bimal.Shah was into Stocks and investments in a big way and hence a short discussion also on the dangerous topic of thriving in the World's easiest profession which is also the toughest profession to continuously make money. There were a few hunting trophy's exhibited on the exterior and interior of one of these plush riverside cabins.The "Stock Market" was in a "Bear Phase" and Bimal and myself took photo's with a exhibited bear skin trophy. I quit air gun hunting decades ago and now indulge in hunting with cash in the " stock market" .Interchanging roles between a bear and a bull according to situations and circumstances, a game of wit's and a gambler's sixth sense of trend prediction.
I am a conservationist of wildlife but also a firm believer in the balance of nature and responsible hunting where it is legal .Remember it was former hunter's of wildlife who also created wild life reserves for conservation of wildlife when they themselves realized that the animals or birds they were hunting as a sport was gradually decreasing in numbers. Finally from the "Bulud River Resort" drove to the scenic 5-star "Qafqaz Riverside Hotel" situated on the foothill of the Caucasian mountain range in Gabala. Checked into "Room N0 410", a palatial room with the gallery offering a amazing view of the mountains
.As usual visited the hotel 5-Star swimming pool which was a excellent 30 meters heated pool and after a short "Yogic Swim" had a refreshing "Steam Sauna" and back to normal self with a average sleep rate of 3 hrs in 24 hrs and happy to be in the company of elite professional insomniacs.
While coming up to my room the " 5-Star lift" got stuck and I had to make a commotion for help. Finally a hotel staff employee told me to press the 2nd floor button and to my relief alighted at N0 2 floor and caught the other lift. A experience of a lifetime for I never ever got stuck in a lift in any " Star Hotel" let alone a plush "5-Star Hotel". Ahoy ! At 2130 hrs we left for dinner which was at the "Malabar Restaurant" and for the first time of the tour got a taste of my favourite non-vegetarian menu, fish. After a lavish "Fish Curry/Roti/Jeera Rice" dinner drove back to our hotel with the weather being very cold and thick fog.reducing driving visibility to a few meters.The hotel had a excellent "Sheesh Hookah lounge" " as well as a "Liquor Bar", moderately priced considering this was a 5-Star resort.
After lunch we drove to the Gabala shooting range which has been operational since 2012 and is part of the Gabala Sport Club, a world-class facility that prepares the athletes for the national teams of Azerbaijan in shooting, boxing, karate, taekwondo, soccer, and judo.
GUN SAFETY HANDLING LITERATURE |
A huge sprawling campus surrounded by forests and we could hear the echoes of the bullets being fired at targets by sports shooters.I have seen "Clay Pigeon" shooting in various Olympic games shown on T.V but never in my life ever been on a actual "Clay Pigeon " shooting range .
Ahoy ! On arrival at the "Clay Pigeon " open air shooting ground each of us was given our turn to shoot a "Clay Pigeon" mechanically released into the air and for the first time in my life tried my skill in " Clay Pigeon " shooting..
Indoor "SNIPER SHOOTING RANGE " |
Since my teenager years in the 1970's had been using a " B.S.A Airgun" for shooting birds in my parent's native villages in Udipi district of Karnataka State in India.Later was even a member of the " Bombay Rifle Club" near my residence in Mumbai where I occasionally practiced target shooting.Had shot with a " AK-47" rifle at a tourist rifle range in Vietnam but never handled a bullet loaded rifle let alone practice "Clay pigeon" shooting.
Surprised myself by shooting down one clay pigeon target which made me feel a few decades younger, underestimating my own shooting skills. .Besides me among us 7 tourists in our group it was only Dr Parameswaran Kumar who was successful in shooting a " Clay pigeon" target.
Archery Range just for Photo-Shoot. |
We next went to the " Sniper Rifle Range" situated inside a large enclosed building which was a short walk from the "Clay Pigeon " firing range. .At the " Sniper Rifle Range" my experience in air gun shooting proved decisive and it was child's play shooting a " BULLS EYE" target from 10 meters distance using a high powered telescopic rifle.If i with 50% blindness in my left eye could hit a "Bulls Eye" a maximum number of times at my age proves the fact that there is no retirement age for "Snipers" and all those films depicting "Sniper Assassinations" are not as difficult as they seem.A famous Mafia quote is, quote, "Any Fool can pull the trigger".Got to understand the skills of a " SNIPER" although there is a day and night difference between target shooting and practical shooting in real life situations or any of the tragic wars.In the Olympics the oldest participants are normally from "Equestrian Events" or "Shooting Events" and Dr Parameswaran and your's truly are proof of the pudding although not Olympians. It was a cloudy day and cool but not biting cold weather, a relief from the heat of home city Mumbai .
Resort at Bulud River Cabin site. |
In the same building was the "Archery Range" which we avoided but just visited for a photo shoot. "Cross-Bow" hunting is very popular in country's where hunting is legalized most notably U.S.A..
Brown Bear Trophy exhibited outside a Log Cabin .Legalized hunting is allowed in Azerbaijan during certain specific months . |
From the " Gabala Shooting Range" our last stop of the day was at the Bulud river restaurant resort.The Bulud river was a tiny stream flowing across this restaurant resort which had cabins on either side of the narrow flowing stream .We occupied a cabin which brought back memories of a similar landscape during my solo exploration of Almaty in Kazakhstan
Hunting trophy in a log cabin at Bulud river resort. |
.Sitting in this cabin experiencing nature in its purest form we sipped local tea while chatting on various topics. Co- Tourist Mr Bimal.Shah was into Stocks and investments in a big way and hence a short discussion also on the dangerous topic of thriving in the World's easiest profession which is also the toughest profession to continuously make money. There were a few hunting trophy's exhibited on the exterior and interior of one of these plush riverside cabins.The "Stock Market" was in a "Bear Phase" and Bimal and myself took photo's with a exhibited bear skin trophy. I quit air gun hunting decades ago and now indulge in hunting with cash in the " stock market" .Interchanging roles between a bear and a bull according to situations and circumstances, a game of wit's and a gambler's sixth sense of trend prediction.
"Qafqaz Riverside Hotel" heated Indoor swimming pool. |
I am a conservationist of wildlife but also a firm believer in the balance of nature and responsible hunting where it is legal .Remember it was former hunter's of wildlife who also created wild life reserves for conservation of wildlife when they themselves realized that the animals or birds they were hunting as a sport was gradually decreasing in numbers. Finally from the "Bulud River Resort" drove to the scenic 5-star "Qafqaz Riverside Hotel" situated on the foothill of the Caucasian mountain range in Gabala. Checked into "Room N0 410", a palatial room with the gallery offering a amazing view of the mountains
.As usual visited the hotel 5-Star swimming pool which was a excellent 30 meters heated pool and after a short "Yogic Swim" had a refreshing "Steam Sauna" and back to normal self with a average sleep rate of 3 hrs in 24 hrs and happy to be in the company of elite professional insomniacs.
Dinner in Gabala at "Malabar Restaurant". |
While coming up to my room the " 5-Star lift" got stuck and I had to make a commotion for help. Finally a hotel staff employee told me to press the 2nd floor button and to my relief alighted at N0 2 floor and caught the other lift. A experience of a lifetime for I never ever got stuck in a lift in any " Star Hotel" let alone a plush "5-Star Hotel". Ahoy ! At 2130 hrs we left for dinner which was at the "Malabar Restaurant" and for the first time of the tour got a taste of my favourite non-vegetarian menu, fish. After a lavish "Fish Curry/Roti/Jeera Rice" dinner drove back to our hotel with the weather being very cold and thick fog.reducing driving visibility to a few meters.The hotel had a excellent "Sheesh Hookah lounge" " as well as a "Liquor Bar", moderately priced considering this was a 5-Star resort.
Outdoor swimming pool of "Qafqaz Riverside Hotel |
Tuesday(17/5/2022) Gabala :- Awesome wet morning with a thick layer of clouds and mist covering the mountain tops that surround this classic hotel location. A wet morning with a slight drizzle of rain. Breakfast was at 0700 hrs in the classic vintage decor " Gabala Restaurant " situated on the outdoor swimming pool level , a self service buffet.After breakfast visited the outdoor swimming pool which would have been a experience of a lifetime swimming in peak summer.With pool heating even the indoor swimming pool seemed cold and hence this outdoor pool was only decorative architecture for most part of the year.
"Evil Eye( Nazar necklace)", a Fashion Statement. |
At 1020 hrs we left our hotel for Sheki.It was a cool cloudy day with drizzle of rain accompanying us for almost half of our journey.At 1130 hrs reached Sheki and on our walk towards Palace of Sheki Khans came across a elderly local woman who welcomed us with the popular "Evil Eye( Nazar necklace)" made of some plant seeds. She refused to take money for the same and Emil told us that she was a lonely popular local lady with the eternal enthusiasm of a positive frame of mind although she definitely was not a wealthy local individual. Wore her necklace as a good luck charm as well as a fashion statement and proceeded towards Sheki Khans Palace.At 1145 hrs entered Palace of Sheki Khans which is a 2 storey building having two large 500 years old Chinar tree's on both sides of its entrance.
Entrance gate to "Palace of Sheki Khans" built in 1797 by Muhammed Hassan Khan. |
The Palace of Sheki Khans was a summer residence for the Sheki Khans and was built in 1797 by Muhammed Hasan Khan. The palace was intended to house the Khans who were in charge of controlling Sheki, as viceroys of the ruling Zand and later Qajar Persian dynasties around 1750 until the time when these territories were annexed by the Russian Empire in 1813 after the Russo-Persian War (1804–1813).
Portrait Studio adjacent to Sheki Khans Palace. |
Guide Emil purchased the tickets and we made our entry inside this two storey Palace building. Large portions of the residence's facade, including the entire southern elevations of the central halls on both floors, are covered by a mosaic of colored glass set in a wooden latticework (shebeke) that was assembled without nails or glue. Muqarnas hoods crowning the four iwans are highlighted with gold on the lower level and covered with mirror fragments on the first floor. Remaining surfaces on all façades are decorated with floral tile panels and tile mosaics.
Local Artisans at "Abad Ceramic Centre". |
"ARMORY" on Sheki Palace grounds. |
From the Photograph studio our next stop was the "Abad Ceramic centre" , a training institute for ceramic craftsmen.Visited the centre and witnessed artisans preparing ceramic artifacts for tourists.From " Abad Ceramic Centre" we visited the " Shebeke Craft House" run by different generations of the same family of traditional craftsmen since the last 300 years.They fabricated various wooden and stained glass handicrafts without nails or fasteners as was done in the Palace of Sheki Khans. A Family trade secret as well as a brand name. Came across a Soviet era "Lada Car" with a stray cat sprawled majestically on its front seat.
Walking downhill within the precincts of Sheki Palace grounds came across the former Soviet prison and later the armory that during the Soviet Imperial era was converted to a Orthodox church .
Impersonating a "Silk Merchant" in historic "Old Sheki Teahouse". |
Weather was excellent, cool and no rain.Came across a young man operating a Drone with great skill akin to a child operating a remote controlled toy.Finally after exiting Sheki Palace grounds boarded our mini bus and headed to local " Hilal Boutique and Restaurant" for lunch.Tuning onto my phone on the hotel wifi was on cloud-9 realizing the Sensex had jumped a whopping 1000+ pts and seems the old hermit lady's good luck "Nazar necklace" had a positive effect on my financial Nazar. All sportspersons and speculators are superstitious and in Mumbai whenever i do long distance motorcycling always make it a point to wear my "Konyak Naga Necklace". Ahoy !
Sheki Halwa and Bamiya sweets shopping. |
This time lunch was local Azerbaijani food and tasted the unique dish of "Shah Plov ( King of rice) " which resembled a cake and had to be cut open with a knife akin to cake cutting to expose the rice mixed with vegetarian herbs and ingredients. On the Non - veg menu were 2 large chunks of lamb chops which I managed to devour along with beer, a la carnivore as i hate wasting food, something learned from the tours of wealthy European and Asian Country's.We were annoyed when the restaurant charged us for the extra salad helpings which was not done at other restaurants and debated the same with the staff.
Azerbaijani tea at Qaynama restaurant |
Finally paid the same and boarded our bus to our next destination , "Sheki Caravansarai" . At 1545 hrs reached the main gate of the Caravanserai and entered the same.Caravanserai complex in Sheki is two magnificent caravanserai named “Yukhary” and “Ashaghy” caravanserai, which means “Upper” and “Lower” Caravanserai in translation from Azerbaijani into English. Construction of these caravanserai is dated back to the 18th-19th centuries AD.Lower caravanserai has a rectangular shape with a large inner yard in the centre of which is located a pool.There are 242 rooms in the lower caravanserai. Since 1988, the lower caravanserai is used as a hotel complex for tourists, guests of the city and local residents and tourists are not allowed to enter the 2nd floor.There was a classic tea shop named "The Old Sheki Tea House" in Caravanserai decor on the ground floor of the Lower Caravanserai . Took a self portrait in this historic teahouse seated on a sheep skin rug impersonating a "Silk Route " merchant with the only flaw being i was wearing shoes.
Glimpse of Downtown Gabala City |
From the Caravanserai it was shopping time along the shops situated in cubicles built on the facade of the Caravanserai building facing the street.Visited a sweet shop selling local Azerbaijani Halwa and as a taster found it too sweet.From Caravanserai we now headed home back to Gabala.Stopped at "Qaynama" restaurant for tea. Later on the drive nearing Gabala the weather was totally Sunny in comparison to the drizzling cloudy morning. Stopped at " Bazaar Store" shopping mall where all the couples did some shopping. From Bazaar store our next stop was at a local sweet shop which had a assortment of local sweets and where i changed some currency .Finally reached our hotel at 2045 hrs and after a quick swim and sauna got myself ready for dinner.At 2130 hrs drove to "Raja Restaurant" for dinner,chicken as usual at this restaurant. Finally back to hotel after dinner and got my best morning sleep of 3 hrs +.
Goodbye "Qafqaz Riverside Resort Hotel" in Gabala.Photo at entrance/departure of hotel on a bright sunny morning. Drive back to Baku. |
At 2nd stage of Yedi Gozel (7 Beauty's) waterfalls. |
Wednesday(18/5/2022)Departure Gabala and arrival Baku :- A excellent morning of good weather compared to yesterday's wet morning of drizzle and mist covering the mountains..Breakfast was at 0700 hrs in the hotel's palatial "Gabala restaurant".A awesome morning of bright sunshine and got a clear view of the entire mountain range including the snow covered peaks of the highest mountains. All the research study i had done on this hotel proved true, a real exotic location at the foot of the Caucasian mountain range. During winter this entire surrounding mountains would be a carpet of white ice and snow with skiing being the tourist sport. Also observed that almost all tourists were of Asian origin mostly from Dubai and Saudi Arabia. Left our hotel at 0930 hrs and bizarrely my room and name was listed as Atul .Dani in the hotel registry ,confusing case of mistaken identity. .Our first stop was at " Yedi Gozel waterfalls(7 Beauty's Waterfalls)" where this waterfall cascaded down a mountain hill in 7 different stages of rock formation.
Entrance to "Yedi Gozel waterfalls(7 Beauty's Waterfalls)" |
There were steps to climb up the hill along a parallel pathway that followed the flow of this narrow gushing waterfalls. We went only upto the second stage of the waterfalls as it would have been strenuous walking to the source of the waterfalls which was the peak of this hill.Stopped at this stage where there was a large wooden platform facing the gushing waterfalls for tourists to admire as well as indulge in photography.
" Aboora Restaurant and Wine Club" |
From the waterfalls our next stop was at " Aboora Restaurant and Wine Club" which was a winery producing local Azerbaijani wine and also allowed tourists to visit its winery and observe the manufacturing process of wine.We were disappointed as the winery was closed to tourists today besides a prior booking was required for visiting the wine factory.Visited the retail shop of this winery where I purchased some " Fruit Pappad's" , a specialty of Azerbaijan. On the long journey we stopped at two places for rest, and on one rest stop came across a beautiful stray mix breed Corgi bitch. Very docile and friendly , reminding me of the Queen of England's favourite photographed pet's over the decades, the Corgi breed of dogs. This mix breed definitely had ties to its pure breed cousins in England , extremely aristocratic in behaviour while accepting morsels of food from tourist's with Mrs Bina.Dani feeding it ice-cream..
At YANARDAG |
On approaching Baku we came across numerous small "Oil drill rigs" spread across the suburbs of the city..Having personally been employed for a few months on a oil drilling platform in the high seas of the coast of India this was the first time in my life that i had viewed oil drill rigs on land and that too in a bustling commercial city. Nearing Yanardag complex I checked for my binoculars and realized I had left it back in the hotel .Over my lifespan have lost count of umbrella's, sunglass's and pens/ ballpens that I have misplaced and sadly I had now lost my recently purchased binoculars from "Dubai Mall" in Dubai. Late Horror Film Director Alfred Hitchcock would have found a good subject on the strange bizarre happenings I experienced in plush 5- star hotel "Qafqaz Riverside Gabala". Truth is stranger than fiction. When we alighted the bus to visit " Yanardag" requested guide Emil to inform the hotel about my binoculars and he did the same and seems chances of recovery was possible as I had definitely left it in my hotel room.I had lost a total of 3 binoculars till date,all of them stolen during my travels and this would be the fourth binoculars lost if not returned. Do you believe in jinxes ? The bizarre losses of my binoculars seems I am jinxed in owning binocular's.
Entrance to ATESHGAH TEMPLE |
On entering "YANARDAG" was baffled by the sight of flames shooting out of the hillside.The Yanardag fire is never extinguished and around this open fireplace the atmosphere is filled with the smell of gas. The flames emanate from vents in sandstone formations. Alexandre Dumas, during one of his visits to the area, described a similar fire he saw in the region inside one of the Zoroastrian fire temples built around it. Only a handful of fire mountains exist today in the world, and most are located in Azerbaijan. Due to the large concentration of natural gas under the Absheron Peninsula, natural flames burned there throughout antiquity and were reported on by historical writers such as Marco Polo.It is claimed that the Yanardag flame was only noted when accidentally lit by a shepherd in the 1950s. There is no seepage of mud or liquid, which distinguishes it from the nearby mud volcanoes of Lokbatan or Gobustan. As usual was busy with photography and I could imagine the view at night. There is a small museum next to the viewing stadium of Yanardag complex and visited the same .
From " Yanardag" our next stop was the " Ateshgah". Guide Emil.Abilov explained us the history of Ateshgah before entering the enclosed walled citadel style complex .At the entrance wall were words written in Sanskrit and on entering the Fortress type walled enclosure was greeted by the sight of the main " Fire Temple" and two other fires burning on either sides of the main fire temple building which were sacrificial fires. Animals were used for sacrifices on these "Sacrificial Fire" chambers.The Baku Ateshgah often called the "Fire Temple of Baku", is a castle-like religious temple in Surakhany town, a suburb in Baku, Azerbaijan. Based on Persian and Indian inscriptions, the temple was used as a Hindu, Sikh, and Zoroastrian place of worship. "Ä€tash" is the Persian word for fire. The pentagonal complex, which has a courtyard surrounded by cells for monks and a tetrapillar-altar in the middle, was built during the 17th and 18th centuries.There are 14 Sanskrit, two Punjabi and one Persian inscription in the Ateshgah.
The only Persian inscription has grammatical errors. It was abandoned in the late 19th century, probably due to the dwindling of the Indian population in the area. The natural eternal flame went out in 1969, after nearly a century of exploitation of petroleum and gas in the area and as seen today is now lit by gas piped from Baku city. After paying homage at the " Fire Temple" we were next given a tour of the various rooms built along the periphery of the enclosed Ateshgah now converted to museum exhibits. Came across a room having the idol of Hindu God Ganapati with the "Gayatri Mantra" being played as also a room containing Zoroastrian exhibits.
Was also shown a grave where supposedly the first Zoroastrian priest was buried . Ateshgah was listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1998.Incidentally the very first oil tanker built in Baku in 1879 and used by the Nobel Brother's for their oil transport business was named "ZOROASTER".Proves the importance of Zoroastrianism origins of Baku.
Main Fire Temple Altar in Ateshgah Complex. |
From " Yanardag" our next stop was the " Ateshgah". Guide Emil.Abilov explained us the history of Ateshgah before entering the enclosed walled citadel style complex .At the entrance wall were words written in Sanskrit and on entering the Fortress type walled enclosure was greeted by the sight of the main " Fire Temple" and two other fires burning on either sides of the main fire temple building which were sacrificial fires. Animals were used for sacrifices on these "Sacrificial Fire" chambers.The Baku Ateshgah often called the "Fire Temple of Baku", is a castle-like religious temple in Surakhany town, a suburb in Baku, Azerbaijan. Based on Persian and Indian inscriptions, the temple was used as a Hindu, Sikh, and Zoroastrian place of worship. "Ä€tash" is the Persian word for fire. The pentagonal complex, which has a courtyard surrounded by cells for monks and a tetrapillar-altar in the middle, was built during the 17th and 18th centuries.There are 14 Sanskrit, two Punjabi and one Persian inscription in the Ateshgah.
Sanskrit inscription on one of the pilgrim cell entrance at Ateshgah |
The only Persian inscription has grammatical errors. It was abandoned in the late 19th century, probably due to the dwindling of the Indian population in the area. The natural eternal flame went out in 1969, after nearly a century of exploitation of petroleum and gas in the area and as seen today is now lit by gas piped from Baku city. After paying homage at the " Fire Temple" we were next given a tour of the various rooms built along the periphery of the enclosed Ateshgah now converted to museum exhibits. Came across a room having the idol of Hindu God Ganapati with the "Gayatri Mantra" being played as also a room containing Zoroastrian exhibits.
Ateshgah Pilgrim cell:- Zoroastrian exhibits. |
Was also shown a grave where supposedly the first Zoroastrian priest was buried . Ateshgah was listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1998.Incidentally the very first oil tanker built in Baku in 1879 and used by the Nobel Brother's for their oil transport business was named "ZOROASTER".Proves the importance of Zoroastrianism origins of Baku.
From Ateshgah our next and last visit of the day was to the Heyder Aliyev Center.The Heydar Aliyev Center is a 57,500 m2 (619,000 sq ft) building complex designed by Iraqi-British architect Zaha Hadid and noted for its distinctive architecture of a flowing, curved style that eschews sharp angles. The center is named after Heydar Aliyev, the first secretary of Soviet Azerbaijan from 1969 to 1982, and president of Azerbaijan Republic from October 1993 to October 2003.The Center extending upto eight floor levels houses a conference hall (auditorium), a gallery hall and a museum.
An internationally recognized architectural work, the building of the Heydar Aliyev Center has become a signature landmark of modern Baku due to its innovative and cutting-edge design.
Took photo's at this beautiful monument , a symbol of Baku of the 21st century.Our next stop was at " Curry House" restaurant where I had the most late official lunch in my entire life .Lunch at 1745 hrs was excellent chicken curry with roti's and rice.From " Curry House" restaurant it was back to " Park Inn hotel" and was allotted " Room N0 411" on the fourth floor.
An internationally recognized architectural work, the building of the Heydar Aliyev Center has become a signature landmark of modern Baku due to its innovative and cutting-edge design.
Landscape view of Hyder Aliyev Center.The symbol of Baku. |
Took photo's at this beautiful monument , a symbol of Baku of the 21st century.Our next stop was at " Curry House" restaurant where I had the most late official lunch in my entire life .Lunch at 1745 hrs was excellent chicken curry with roti's and rice.From " Curry House" restaurant it was back to " Park Inn hotel" and was allotted " Room N0 411" on the fourth floor.
Visited the hotel swimming pool for a short swim an
d a sauna bathe.Real stress relievers of fatigue.Dinner was at 2100 hrs at " Maharani Restaurant" and was a similar entertainment of exotic Belly dance with cocktail of drinks.Informed local tour Manager/ Hostess Ms Nergis.Mamadova about my binoculars and my tour to Gobustan along with the main tour group. She told me about the arrangements regarding my departure after visiting the mud volcanoes at Gobustan and paid her 70 Manat for the half day Gobuland tour.A excellent nights entertainment and the lady's joined the dancer while husband's videotaped the same. Grandfather Mr Atul.Dani was the live wire of our tiny group , dancing Bollywood style with the graceful exotic dancer. As for me Uncle Rudolph, after decades tried a trio of " Cocktail drinks" beginning with a Russian roulette " Vodka shot" followed by a glass of local beer and finally ending the night's cocktail with a small peg of " Black Label" on the Rocks and as sober as a Old Monk .Ahoy! A hectic day of road travel , sightseeing and partying finally came to a end and we were back to hotel at 2300 hrs.
Ms Nergis.Mamadova(Silver shoes) with exotic Dance artist. |
d a sauna bathe.Real stress relievers of fatigue.Dinner was at 2100 hrs at " Maharani Restaurant" and was a similar entertainment of exotic Belly dance with cocktail of drinks.Informed local tour Manager/ Hostess Ms Nergis.Mamadova about my binoculars and my tour to Gobustan along with the main tour group. She told me about the arrangements regarding my departure after visiting the mud volcanoes at Gobustan and paid her 70 Manat for the half day Gobuland tour.A excellent nights entertainment and the lady's joined the dancer while husband's videotaped the same. Grandfather Mr Atul.Dani was the live wire of our tiny group , dancing Bollywood style with the graceful exotic dancer. As for me Uncle Rudolph, after decades tried a trio of " Cocktail drinks" beginning with a Russian roulette " Vodka shot" followed by a glass of local beer and finally ending the night's cocktail with a small peg of " Black Label" on the Rocks and as sober as a Old Monk .Ahoy! A hectic day of road travel , sightseeing and partying finally came to a end and we were back to hotel at 2300 hrs.
Gobustan State historical and cultural reserve museum site. |
Thursday(19/5/2022)Departure Baku :- As usual after my 3 hrs sleep was awake and onto Azerbaijani local MTV music.My observations during my 6 days stay in Azerbaijan is that major English news channels are not in popular vogue unlike Russian T.V that dominates the T.V channels along with local Azerbaijani Media. The Russia/ Ukraine War has polarized the entire World. Exactly the opposite in India where local T.V has totally censored RT( Russian Television) the only Russian news channel in India.
Gobustan Rock Art Cultural Landscape. |
Travel educates. Had trouble packing my vintage 42 year old " Samsonite Suitcase" as one of the locks was non operational. This is travel where the journey and not the destination is the experience akin to normal living. Breakfast was at 0745 hrs, lavish non veg breakfast and after breakfast checked out of the hotel. At 0915 hrs our driver Mr Shahin arrived and we began our 70 Kms drive to Gobustan.I was sitting on the front seat next to Shahin and on the highway our Mercedes touched speeds of 105 Km/hr finally reaching Gobustan at 1045 hrs and first entered the Gobustan State historical and cultural reserve museum. The Gobustan Museum is a small single storey building and there are group guided tours where the guide explains various exhibits of the rock carvings and dummies of ancient people living during prehistoric times. The Flora and fauna of the region over the millennium's is also explained and it is always preferable to visit the "Gobustan National Museum" first before visiting the "Mud Volcanoes" or "Gobustan Rock art cultural landscape".
Pathway to Rock Art cultural landscape |
On coming out of the museum saw Two cycles parked outside the museum entrance gate with a Caucasian lady rider. On inquiring with the lady was shocked to know that Mrs Emilie.Sanchis and her husband Mr Davy.Sanchis were travelling around the World on their cycles having already covered 12000 Kms.Took a photograph of self with the bike as also of the couple as it is not daily you come across cyclist couples travelling on a cycle around the World.From the museum we drove uphill to the Gobustan Rock Art Cultural Landscape national park.Saw a few rock paintings and Petroglyphs which was difficult to understand for a amateur tourist but thankfully one of the guides was present to explain us one particular rock painting.Visiting the entire 537 hectares(1328 acres) Rock Art cultural landscape could take a entire day or day's and hence after a brief visit to the first few Rock art stones at approximately 1200 hrs drove towards Gobustan village to visit the mud volcanoes on Dashgil hill in Gobustan .
The "LADA " drive to Dashgil HillMud Volcanoes. |
On the main highway diversion at Gobustan Village we stopped our car and had to board two Lada Cars to reach the " Mud Volcanoes" on Dashgil hill..The taxi charge for a Lada Car is 10 Manats and Mr and Mrs Dani along with me went in one Lada car while Dr and Mrs Parameswaran along with Mr and Mrs Shah went in the other car.It was a long drive on one of the worst dirt track barren desert topography that could test a dirt track motorcyclist skills let alone a car..A drive akin to participating in the "Dakar Car Rally I shuddered to think of a mechanical vehicle breakdown in the midst of this desert land with no help in sight.Have admiration for the "LADA" car and these ordinary young taxi driver's on whom our lives hinged as a slight misjudgment of driving error could cause a accident.
Our taxi driver seemed to be a fan of Hindi movies and was crazy about Hindi actor Shah Rukh Khan. Lada, once the mass produced car of the former Soviet Union was real robust to survive this desert condition dirt track ride to the " MUD VOLCANOES" on Dashgil hill in Gobustan.
Finally in Dashgil at MUD VOLCANOES. |
As they say in horse racing, "HORSES FOR COURSES". At times the most unplanned events become the best in a travel tour, especially on " Solo Travels" and this spur of the moment decision to do the trip to Gobustan was one of my best decisions. On approaching the Mud Volcanoes the sight reminded me of space photo's of moon crater's, a unbelievable sight. Stopped our car's and alighted the vehicle walking up a mini mud volcano mountain. A mixture of mud and water akin to a gutter drain overflow was oozing out of a few of the Mud volcanoes. The contents of Gobustan’s mud domes are cold. Their main danger is in their unpredictability. A buildup of pressurized gas in the cone can be released without warning, causing possible asphyxiation, triggering a jet of fire, and drawing a torrent of fast-flowing mud from the volcano. In 2001 gas seepage caused a mud volcano near Azerbaijan’s capital of Baku to explode. The mound shot flames hundreds of feet into the air, burned for three days, and filled the sky with mud and black smoke.
It's estimated that 300 of the planet's estimated 700 mud volcanoes are located in Gobustan, and the Caspian Sea.
Group Photo at "Mud Volcanoes on Dashgil hill of Gobustan" :- L-R : Mr Bimal.Shah, Mrs Sangita.Shah,Mrs Bina.Dani, Mr Atul.Dani, Mrs Vijaya .Kumar, Dr Parameswaran .Kumar and Mr Rudolph.Furtado. |
Mud volcanoes of Gobustan are a popular attraction for both scientists and tourists, with tourists often bathing in mud, which is thought to have medicinal qualities akin to the mud of the Dead Sea in Israel/Jordan.
.In fact both the Lada driver's collected mud in bottles which was taken by the Shah and Dani families.
Drive back to Baku. Beautiful Mosque. |
After photography made the long treacherous desert drive back to the main road. Changed over from the tiny Lada to the plush Mercedes-Benz car and headed towards Baku. It was a beautiful drive along the Caspian sea passing alongside " Baku Shipyard" which did not have ships but Drill Rig platforms under construction. From the highway spotted a rig in the Caspian sea. Memories of my sea sailing days on the off-shore vessels that served the oil Rigs of Bombay High were revived. Finally entered downtown Baku Boulevard which reflected 21st century Baku with its oil rich wealth replicating Dubai in building architecture, museums and malls. Got a glimpse of the "Carpet Museum" which had a half rolled "Azeri Carpet" as its roof,,
" AZERBAIJAN CARPET MUSEUM" on Baku Boulevard displays Azerbaijani rugs and carpets .The structure of the building is intended to look like a rolled carpet. |
One of the unique architectural designs in the World let alone Baku city. Entire Downtown Baku Boulevard had heavy road traffic and finally at 1415 hrs reached " Flavors Fusion Cuisine" restaurant.
Changed to another taxi for airport at this restaurant. |
Bid the group goodbye as they proceeded into "Flavors Restaurant" for lunch..They had extended their stay in Baku by one day and would be leaving the tomorrow. I now had to change over to another car to reach the airport and the car was nowhere in sight. Yesterday at the restaurant Ms Nergis had told me that I should be 3 hrs before departure at the airport and hence was worried as lightning can strike twice and akin to a airport emergency landing during arrival to Baku I could miss the flight on my departure from Baku.Flight departure time was 1655 hrs and here i was at Flavors restaurant in Downtown Baku on verge of a travel crisis. Rest of the group were engrossed in their lunch and Mr Bimal.Shah helped me in contacting Ms Nergis who told me not to worry but be happy akin to the Bobby.McFerrin hit song of the 1980's as she had everything under control.
Drive to Airport in time to board flight. |
She probably had not read my " Solo Travel CV" encounters with airlines regarding air travel agency mismanagement of flight tickets to understand my genuine travel frustration as once bitten always twice shy. Finally with just 1 hr 3o mins for plane departure and preparing for the worst the car arrived at 1515 hrs and in peak traffic we headed to the airport. Admired the city view on the drive back to the airport as now i was more familiar with Baku city although having a stay of just 6 days as also mentally prepared for a shock of missing the plane , Lightning struck twice and on alighting from the taxi and heading to the airport entrance had forgotten my phone in the car. The driver reminded me of the same and handed me the phone. Entered the airport and headed to the information desk where I was guided to the " Air Arabia" check-in counter desk. Checked in my luggage and after a very detailed personal security check which included a new method of keeping your foot on a marker that used "A.I (Artificial Intelligence)" rather than personal frisking entered immigration.
Over the Caucasus mountains to Mumbai via Sharjah |
Travel educates! The strict checking was probably a result of the " Russia- Ukraine War" and after immigration finally headed to duty- free shopping where I spent my surplus local cash on purchasing a " Black Label"whisky and a chocolate. Boarded the "Flight G9 304" on time akin to a racehorse winning a race by a nose and reached Sharjah on scheduled arrival time. Security check was normal at Sharjah Airport and whiled away my time at " Gate 22" on the phone internet."Flight G9 405" was punctual on take-off from Sharjah at 2345 hrs and finally at 0415(IST) hrs touched down at Mumbai airport.After the normal immigration clearance collected my vintage modified "Samsonite" suitcase and headed out of the airport ,Took the elevator to ground level and booked a ordinary taxi to Prabhadevi costing Rs 500 finally reaching home .
P.S :- Thanks to Wikipedia, Google and the Internet for my personal research in writing this detailed travelogue of our short group tour to Azerbaijan. All opinions expressed are my own personal views.